| Chandelier.
When I first installed a "chandelier"
in our Classic, it was just for fun. But after finding how helpful
an overhead light can be, I looked for a small fixture to install in the
LXE. The floorplan of the LXE allowed me to install a permanent bracket
over the kitchen window. When the side is folded, the bracket hangs
between the beds. The chandelier is a lightweight pendent lamp from
Home Depot, designed to hang from a rod. I removed the rods and wire,
spliced white lamp cord to the socket, and threaded the cord through a
length of white chain that hangs from the bracket. I add an in-line
switch to the cord and put a wall-hugger plug on the end, so that it fits
snugly against the cabinet-side outlet. It's amazing how much helpful
light is provided by a single 40-watt bulb.
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Plug-guard.
Protecting the camper's electrical hitch pigtail is always a concern, and
the Plug-guard
is an easy solution. Taking a tip from another owner, I used a 1-1/2"
conduit clamp to attach the Plug-guard to the tongue jack, eliminating
the need to drill holes in the tongue.
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Detachable
power cord. In both the Classic and the Alite, I made the pull-out,
stuff-in power cord detachable, using a Marinco
kit. The first step in installing the kit is to cut the cord
- always a heart-stopping moment! When I removed the existing "mousehole"
hatch, the hole indeed looked as though it had been made by a mouse - uneven
and chewed up every which way! The hatch was larger than what the
Marinco kit was designed to replace, so I had to create some sort of masking
plate to put behind the new outlet. After some thought, I decided
to use the old mousehole hatch by removing its door, grinding off the hinge,
and drilling new mounting holes to match the Marinco outlet. Because
the new holes barely caught in the exterior fiberglas, I drilled them all
the way through the interior wall. The attachment bolts and nuts
are secured against braces of scrap wood that provide a firm surface on
the inside.
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In spite of the installation difficulties, we like the fact that there are no more plastic "fingers" to break off in the old hole, no access for critters and cold air, and no messy, stiff, wet cord to stuff into the inside storage area. Instead, the detached cord is wiped dry, coiled and neatly stored in the front bin, and we appreciate the increased storage inside the camper. |
| New
converter. The converter in our LXE was a 20amp Elixir, standard
in 2007. Since we had experienced two previous Elixir failures, and
heard similar complaints from other owners, I decided to be proactive and
replace this converter BEFORE it failed us. The new converter is
a WFCO
8725, a direct replacement in size and power for the Elixir.
The hardest part was managing multiple stiff wires in the small space inside the converter. I went through several bandaids in the process! It was not technically difficult. A moderately handy person could do this, with a bit of background electrical knowledge. It helped me to know, for example, that I could put 2 ground wires under the same ground screw, as long as they fit. I also knew that the hot (black) wire from the incoming 30amp power cord should be connected through a breaker, and it would then feed power to the other breakers. The manual instructions were not clear about that. Removing the Elixir was easy. I took a couple of pictures, wrote down which wires were connected where, and used labeled masking tape to hold together disconnected wires. The incoming 30amp power cord was secured to the Elixir with a plastic grommet, and I could NOT figure out how to loosen it from the cable. I was finally able to wrench it loose and break it off the cable. I removed the breakers and fuses for use in the new converter. Once the Elixir was out of
the way, I used a keyhole saw and a utility knife to enlarge the opening
vertically, cutting away the paneling from the top framing member to the
bottom. It had been suggested that Elixir failures might have been
as much from overheating as from poor construction, so I wanted to add
extra ventilation. Before connecting wires to the new converter,
I trimmed the bottom of the opening with a piece of fake (styrofoam) wood-grained
edging, covering the inside corners with wood-grained contact paper and
using a brown marker to darken any raw wood that might show. Once
the 30amp cord and the wires for the two AC circuits were connected.
I slid the converter into the opening, leaving about 1" of space at the
bottom, and screwed it to the cabinet frame.
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